Last updated on Aug. 4, 2026
Before I came to Hong Kong for the first time, I thought I had never heard of the Chungking Mansions. The large building complex, in which I reserved the tiniest Airbnb possible to get an authentic experience of HK life, didn't ring a bell until, of course, we arrived there.
A Tesla Uber picked us up at the airport in the middle of the night. When we arrived around 3 a.m., the driver pointed at the entrance, a sort of shopping mall or market with the large golden letters of Chungking Mansions written on it. Someone in front of it asked us if we needed a place to stay. As soon as we entered, things slowly came back to my mind.
The maze-like little alleyways with shop sellers, bistros, and money exchanges. The hidden elevators in the corner next to the electronics dealers. The miniature office on some upper floor, stacked with folders and documents, reminding me of those lawyer's offices up in the attics of Kafka's Trial. Where do I know this from?
Distracted by our aim to find our Airbnb, I pushed those thoughts aside. Using one elevator, we reached a mysterious office. After our documentation was finished, we went back down again. Between Indian curry stalls and past the African shops, we reached another elevator and finally ended up in our mini accommodation. It was comfortable and comparatively clean.
Where I First Discovered Chungking Mansions?
While looking around the Chungking Mansions, I had this feeling that I'm suddenly in a classic Hong Kong movie. That's how it must be everywhere in the city, pure cyberpunk, I thought. But then I wondered more and more about one specific film that was released in the 90s, featuring this mix of the same chaotic atmosphere and the same sense of a place frozen in time, where faded modernity blends with the echoes of the past. There were the same narrow, maze-like corridors lined with shops from all over the world stretched beneath a tangled web of pipes and electrical cables. It was called "Chungking Express" by Wong Kar-Wai! Was it coincidence?
I eventually deepened my online research, and it turned out that the Chungking Mansions were one of the most notorious buildings in Hong Kong and played a main role in the film I had thought of. The 5 blocks at 36-44 Nathan Rd rise over more than 17 floors and are connected by the covered levels on the first floor. Around 10,000 people from around 130 nations live, work, and roam around here. In addition to the Chinese, there are mainly Indians, Pakistanis, Indians, Nepalese, and Ghanaians present.
All this atmosphere makes Chungking Mansions an inconspicuous building at first but ultimately a little-known attraction in the city. While many tourists marvel at the nightlife in Central, the Chungking Mansions have at least as much to offer, albeit in a different way.
It's nowhere near as glamorous in Chungking Mansions as Lan Kwai Fang Street on Hong Kong Island. Instead, it is grittier, more down-to-earth, and undeniably more authentic. Conversations aren't about the latest startup, visa runs to mainland China, or the trendiest massage parlours. Instead, you find yourself discussing migration stories, everyday life, and the traditions of people from every corner of Asia and Africa.
The restaurants on the second deck of the ground floor are particularly recommended. It is mainly Indians and Pakistanis with typical dishes from the Punjab who work here. Visitors can also try Ghanaian jolof rice and fufu. It is, nonetheless, the African perspective that makes a visit to Chungking Mansions so exciting.
My Tip: Buy Your SIM Card, Electronics, and Travel Essentials at Chungking Mansions
By my next visit to Hong Kong, I knew exactly where to go to buy various essentials. More precisely, I had figured out the best place to get electronics, SIM cards, exchange cash, and pick up all kinds of things for the upcoming month of traveling in China.
If you're planning to continue to Macau, Taiwan, or mainland China, for example, the ground floor of Chungking Mansions is your best stop. This is where you'll find the most competitive roaming deals in the city. A SIM card typically costs around USD 30–40, giving you enough data for an entire month of travel.
One major advantage of an HK roaming SIM is that you won't need a VPN to access Western apps in China. Because the mobile connection is routed through Hong Kong, services that are normally blocked behind the Great Firewall continue to work without any extra effort. That said, using a VPN or proxy is still a good idea if you want to better protect your personal data.
SIM card vendors can be found both inside the building and along the street outside. Power plug adapters are another bargain here - buying one at Chungking Mansions can save you a surprising amount compared to prices elsewhere in Hong Kong.
A More Modern Side of Chungking Mansions: CKE Mall and Views over Nathan Road
Not every part of Chungking Mansions feels frozen in time. Tucked away beside the main entrance and beneath the dripping air-conditioning units are two additional entrances. One of them, right next to the marble gateway, leads via escalator to the CKE Shopping Mall, located a few floors above the bustling ground level.
This section couldn't feel more different. Gone are the maze-like corridors and countless independent traders. Instead, you'll find clothing stores, fast-food chains, and a much cleaner, more contemporary shopping environment.
Unlike downstairs, bargaining isn't really part of the experience here, although a handful of smaller electronics shops may still leave a little room for negotiation. Another noticeable difference is the atmosphere: while the lower floors remain busy well into the night, the mall upstairs winds down much earlier. By around 10 p.m., most shops have already closed.
One place I particularly enjoyed was Café de Coral, one of Hong Kong's best-known local restaurant chains. It's the perfect spot if you want to sample a variety of small dishes - from soups and grilled mackerel to braised chicken and countless other local favourites.
The real highlight, however, is the long panoramic window overlooking bustling Nathan Road. Sitting there with dinner while watching the crowds stream through one of Hong Kong's busiest streets is reason enough to come upstairs.
Hidden Below Ground: Heath, Chungking Mansions' Pop-Up World
Curiously, just a few steps away from the entrance to CKE Mall is another doorway that most visitors walk straight past. Marked only by a simple silver "H," it hardly stands out at first glance. Only when you notice the name Heath do you realise there's something hidden below.
Another escalator takes you down - this time deep into the basement of Chungking Mansions.
The underground level has been transformed into a trendy creative space filled with pop-up stores, fashion boutiques, art installations, and a handful of cafés and eateries. Compared with the more conventional shopping mall upstairs, Heath has a much younger, more experimental vibe.
We particularly liked Sincere Tea, where it wasn't just the excellent Silky Hong Kong Milk Tea and snacks that stood out. The interior itself felt like a tribute to the 1980s, filled with action figures, cassette tapes, and other nostalgic pop-culture references.
Elsewhere in the Heath basement you'll find carefully curated record shops, a photo booth, souvenir stores, local artwork, Korean cosmetics, and even speciality Asian whiskies. It feels less like a shopping centre and more like a creative space hidden beneath one of Hong Kong's most legendary buildings.
How to Find the Chungking Mansions in Hong Kong?
To find Chungking Mansions, take Hong Kong's red MTR line (Tsuen Wan Line) and get off at Tsim Sha Tsui. Just outside the station, on Nathan Road near the intersection with Peking Road, you'll spot the entrance to this fascinating labyrinth—a microcosm in the heart of Hong Kong, a world of its own that seems to never truly sleep.
Location: Chungking Mansions