From Istanbul to Polonezköy: How to Visit a Piece of Poland in Turkey

Polonezköy in Istanbul is one of those geographical anomalies that make travelling exciting. The village was founded in 1842 as Adampol by Polish exiles who sought refuge in the Ottoman Empire during the partition of their homeland. Polish is still spoken here today, and Polonezköy – literally “Polish village” – is presumably the only place in Turkey where pigs have been raised, or are still raised for meat production. Apart from that, you can expect lush green landscapes, pristine forests and fresh air for a relaxing hike outside of the metropolis.

So, what is there to discover in Polonezköy near Istanbul, and how do you get there? Let's take a closer look at this unusual community.

Map of Polonezköy With All Highlights

What is Polonezköy and Why Do Polish People Live in Turkey?

Polonezköy was originally called Adampol, named after its founder, Adam Czartoryski, who was looking for refuge after his involvement in the failed November Uprising of 1830–31 against the Russian Empire. The former Tsarist foreign minister of Polish descent could no longer find sanctuary in his ancestral homeland, as Poland had been partitioned between Russia, Prussia and Austria. After stops in London and Paris, he eventually arrived near Istanbul in 1842, where the sultans granted him permission to purchase land.

Following the failed European revolutions around 1848 and the Crimean War, in which Polish soldiers fought alongside the Ottoman Empire, more Poles arrived. The village, nestled in the forests east of the Bosphorus, grew from an initial population of just 12 to more than 200 residents. When Poland regained its independence, many inhabitants returned to their homeland, while those who remained became Turkish citizens under Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.

Today, Turkish is clearly the dominant language. Many residents have either converted to Islam or are actually Turks who have settled here. Of Polonezköy's roughly 700 inhabitants, around 100 are still said to speak Polish. Spoiler alert: I didn't find a single one. Admittedly, there weren't that many people around to begin with.

My Visit to Polonezköy: What You Can See in the Polish Village Near Istanbul

Anyone visiting Polonezköy, I would, therefore, recommend either choosing seasonal travels in summer or at least coming here on weekends. Arriving on 1st October was a little underwhelming, since the season was already over. Above that, most people from Istanbul come here during weekends, so during the week, when I came here, there wasn't too much going on.

At least I did manage to discover a few attractions. These included the following 10 highlights in Polonezköy:

1. House of Zosia Ryzy

The historic Zosia Ryzy House now serves as a museum dedicated to the history of the village. It's probably the best place to step back around 200 years in time and explore the many historic pieces of furniture and other artefacts. Unfortunately, the Polonezköy Museum was closed when I visited. Apparently, it only opens its doors on weekends during autumn. Those who have managed to visit, however, seem to be very enthusiastic about the exhibition.

2. Catholic Church of Matka Boska Częstochowska

The Catholic church in Polonezköy was also closed during my visit. Apparently, you'll need to come on a Saturday evening or Sunday to catch a glimpse inside during a service. Photos taken by those who have managed to get in show plenty of woodwork and Polish inscriptions.

3. The Polish Cemetery

When it's actually open, the cemetery in Polonezköy could be an interesting place to visit. Once again, I couldn't get inside on October 1, but at least I could look at some of the graves from the distance and spot the Polish flags. The police station is directly opposite, so climbing over the fence probably isn't a good idea.

4. Forest and Wildlife

Most Turkish visitors actually come to Polonezköy for its natural surroundings. The region is a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of Istanbul, explore the forests and watch birds. To go on hikes, people usually book a hotel for the whole weekend and enjoy the fresh air outside of the city.

5. Polonezköy Country Club

I didn't quite make it this far into the beautiful forests, but from what I've heard about the Polonezöy Country Club located here, it seems to be a perfect place to relax and enjoy a variety of activities. From the distance, I could hear some shooting sounds from the sports rifle range, and there seem to be quite a few entertainment options on offer.

A closer look at the information available online reveals more about the place. It is something like a family-friendly leisure complex, a resort with accommodation. The Polonezköy Country Club includes swimming pools, a zoo, picnic and BBQ areas, a tennis court, and much more.

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6. Polonezköy Zoo

The Polonezköy Zoo is located right next to the Polonezköy Country Club (ad) and offers an enjoyable outing, especially for families. Alongside dogs and cats, you can see peacocks, ostriches, donkeys, sheep, foxes, and wolves. There are even more exotic animals, including zebras and giraffes.

7. Glass Art Centre Polonezköy Cam Sanat Merkezi

The Glass Art Centre Polonezköy was perhaps my favourite place in the village. The enormous mosaic lettering spelling out Polonezköy at the entrance is already quite eye-catching. Inside the shop, you can watch the artists at work and buy glass jewellery and decorative pieces.

8. Karczma Kriha (Polish Restaurant in Polonezköy)

Finally, a proper success when it comes to Polish culture in Turkey! The Polish restaurant Karczma Kriha is located right on the main road and was somehow the reason I missed my bus and eventually had to hitchhike back to Istanbul.

Whether the place is actually authentic is debatable. The many dolls, an oversized Barbie reminding me of the crucifixion, a Russian St Basil's Cathedral next to a Pinocchio figure, and olives served alongside the beetroot soup barszcz are bold choices.

Somehow, though, this eclectic Slavic mix, with all its little inaccuracies, is rather entertaining. Just enjoy the absurdity.

9. Zeynepp Café

Zeynepp Café is a wonderfully colourful place where you can feel at home. It's a nice spot to stop for a break during your walk around the village. Unfortunately, there's not much Polish about the menu. Instead, you'll find coffee, tea and breakfast options. Zeynepp also serves wine, beer and meze.

10. Halim Et & Kahvalti

Halim Et & Kahvaltı is a grill and breakfast restaurant that's particularly worth visiting for the view. Looking out across the hills, you can almost imagine yourself in Poland rather than Turkey.

How to Get From Istanbul to Polonezköy?

There are several ways to get from Istanbul to Polonezköy, using buses, ferries and taxis – although in practice, you'll probably need a combination of them. If you don't have your own car, getting there by public transport can be a bit of a challenge. There are at least a few buses running from selected locations in Istanbul to the Polish village. However, combining a bus, ferry and taxi, or a metro ride with a taxi is usually a better option. Depending on the route, this can be cheaper or more expensive. Here are the best ways to get to Polonezköy from Istanbul, starting at Taksim Square.

From Istanbul to Polonezköy by Bus

Taking the bus all the way is difficult in terms of timing. Most of the connections I found only start running in the afternoon or evening. Including the journey from Taksim to the bus stop in Kavacık Sapağı on the Asian side, you'd spend around 2 h travelling. That doesn't leave much time to explore once you get there. The last bus back leaves as early as 5 pm. After that, there are hardly any options. Alternatively, you can stay overnight in the Poloneköy Country Club (ad) to enjoy a bit more flexibility as well as some entertainment.

Personally, I decided to rely on the fact that hitchhiking is quite easy in Turkey. After missing the 5 pm bus, I stuck out my thumb and quickly got a ride from Polonezköy to Istanbul. For the journey to the Polish village, however, I chose a different option.

To Necip Fazıl or Meclis by Metro and Further by Taxi

A fairly common recommendation is to take the metro to Necip Fazıl or Meclis, as both stations are already relatively close to the edge of the forest around Polonezköy. This option works quite well if you're starting from Üsküdar or Kadıköy, for example. Here, you are already close to the relevant metro line, which saves you some time.

However, I wouldn't recommend this route if you're starting from Taksim, because you would still need to combine it with additional bus and ferry journeys.

Once you reach Necip Fazıl or Meclis, taking a taxi for 35 to 40 minutes can also get quite expensive. The only Uber fare I found was around 1,500 lira each way, or just under €30. If you're travelling with several people and can split the cost, it might be a reasonable option. Travelling alone, however, you'd easily spend around €60 on the return journey.

Reaching Polonezköy by Ferry, Taxi, and Bus Via Beykoz

My preferred route from Istanbul to Polonezköy goes via the port town of Beykoz on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. First of all: make sure your Istanbulkart is topped up before you set off. I couldn't find any machines to add credit along this route.

Unfortunately, taking a ferry directly from Eminönü in Central Istanbul wasn't really an option, as the departure was far too late. There's apparently a more flexible connection from Üsküdar, but since I was starting from Taksim, that would have meant an additional transfer to the ferry terminal and another crossing.

From Taksim, the best option is to start by taking a bus north. First, I took a bus connection to Beşiktaş Meydanı, where plenty of minibuses and buses to Yeniköy were waiting. The minibuses take a more direct route, while the buses stop at the ferry terminal in İstinye before turning west. From there, you'd have to walk the remaining distance or take a taxi for around €3–4. I simply ordered an Uber. The journey from Beşiktaş to Yeniköy took me about 30 minutes.

The ferry crossing from Yeniköy to Beykoz takes around 10 minutes, so it's a quick trip. Unfortunately, as mentioned, there are no Istanbulkart top-up machines here. Luckily, someone was kind enough to lend me the money for the fare.

Once you're on the other side, Polonezköy is only about 25 minutes away. You'll need to pay another 600–800 lira for an Uber, or around €13–15. That's much more reasonable than on the route by metro and taxi, especially if you're travelling alone from Istanbul to Polonezköy.

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I also checked Uber fares from Polonezköy to Beykoz. They were in the same range, at around 600–800 lira. But as an experienced hitchhiker, I wasn't going to miss the opportunity to catch a ride back to Istanbul. I had missed the last bus at 5 pm in favour of what turned out to be the best Polish barszcz east of the Bosphorus and was devoted to stopping some cars.

The conditions for hitchhiking in Polonezköy are ideal: there's just one road, plenty of quietness and enough space for cars to pull over. Three workers eventually picked me up and took me all the way past the second Bosphorus Bridge, dropping me off at the metro station for Taksim. By bus, I would have had to make my way across the Asian side and continue from there. Taking an Uber would have meant another combination of ferry and bus. All in all, it's a little journey of around 90 to 120 minutes.

From Istanbul Taksim to Polonezköy in short:

• Bus to Beşiktaş-Meydani (10-20 min)
• Bus or minibus to İstinye or Yeniköy (around 30 min)
• From İstinye walking or taxi to Yeniköy (10-20 min)
• Ferry from Yeniköy to Beykoz (10 min)
• Taxi from Beykoz to Polonezköy (ca. 25 min for approx. 13-15 €)

By Rental Car from Istanbul to Polonezköy

The fastest way to get from Istanbul to Polonezköy is by rental car. For the full distance, it is also cheaper than taking a taxi. If you rent a car at Istanbul Airport (IST) (ad), you’ll pay from around €20 per day, for example. Fuel costs come on top of that. At Sabiha Gökçen, Istanbul’s airport on the Asian side, prices are even lower (ad).

Is There Polish Food in Polonezköy?

There is surprisingly little Polish food in Polonezköy near Istanbul. Even in places like Karczma Kriha that are specifically framed as Polish, it's hard to find authentic meals on the menu. At least, the barszcz soup was probably the best I've ever had east of the Bosphorus.

Joking aside, it really wasn't bad at all. It even came with śmietana (sour cream) and pickles. Other dishes listed under the heading of Polish food included wild duck with orange sauce, steak on spinach and Polish manti (essentially pierogi, like those served in restaurants in Kraków). Add salmon teriyaki, spaghetti, Wiener schnitzel and Mexican steak with Tulum cheese, and the culinary confusion is complete. That doesn't mean the food tastes bad, though. It's just a pretty wild mix of options.

The next option seems to be the Leonardo restaurant, which is considerably more expensive. Most of the menu is Turkish here as well, but there are a few dishes with a Polish twist. The Kraków breakfast, for example, features Frankfurter sausages (made from veal, believe it or not), smoked meat, cottage cheese, fried potatoes, scrambled eggs, salmon and blackberry crêpes – pretty much everything Polish cuisine has to offer, not. 😅

I also spotted barszcz, pierogi with smoked beef and śmietana on Leonardo's menu. The Russian-French bœuf stroganoff and a Steak à la Polonaise with mashed potatoes and chimichurri seemed to have been added rather arbitrarily. As I said, don't expect authenticity. Somehow, it's still charming.

Tip: Take Food to Polonezköy

There are actually quite a few restaurants in Polonezköy. During my visit, however, they either seemed deserted or overpriced. Polish dishes in particular can be expensive. Some places were charging as much as €20 for pierogi. The barszcz cost me around €4, which was still reasonable, especially considering the generous side dishes.

I had somehow anticipated this and picked up half a loaf of bread with köfte in Beykoz. It turned out to be an excellent provision for my walks through the forests around Polonezköy. That way, I didn't have to order huge portions at inflated prices once I got there. The one bowl of soup in Kriha Karczma was more than enough.